So I finally went surfing, for the first time in four months or so. We went to Chiba. It was stormy with rain and 30 mph winds, but we drove all the way down to Onjuku, where it was offshore and actually pretty hollow and nice. The waves were still kind of all over place, since it was sandbar, and there was a current, so it was hard to line up and catch anything. After an hour or so, my hands were so numb that I could barely duckdive. Mostly I just caught close out waves with a few close out barrels. Still it was really fun to go surfing. Hopefully, it won't be four more months before our next session. Btw, Christian, the 4/3 and booties are plenty warm. I didn't even use the hood.
3 comments:
glad the b-day present worked out. you gotta come surfing in Santa Cruz with Chris. It's a fun place to watch because the way the boardwalk is you can see from the top. As for the surf you'll have to consult with Chris
Hi Jesse-love the surf pics! It made me cold just to look at them. One of our friends got a 3/4/5 wetsuit at a sale for 35$. It was too short for her, but perfect for me. I've been so warm. Robby wears it too. He has no shame. It looks like he's wearing capri's when he puts it on and it has a pink heart on the chest. It had a hood, but we cut it off. Way too claustrophobic. I can't believe how big the girls are.
looks like Oregon surf. water probably feels like Oregon too.
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