So last weekend, there was a huge swell and I got the best surf I have ever had in California. I surfed Uppers Friday night. It was 3-5, occasional 6 ft. Hawaiian, and totally lining up. I caught a lot of smaller waves and a few really big outside sets. The biggest sets were breaking really far out and just rolling through washing everyone to the inside. When I came in I was so exhausted. Mostly I am out of shape, but also I paddled more that day than I do in several months of surfing Newport. The next day we checked a few other spots and even paddled out at Crystal Cove, but it was too big for the spot, with crazy exposed rocks on the inside. So we ended up back at Uppers again. At first, it wasn't quite lining up, but it got better as it got later and by the end I had a series of really nice waves. This picture is on the inside, so it was pretty small. Paddling over the shoulder is Dan, my hometeaching companion and surfing buddy.
1 comment:
Yes! That's the kind of thing you need to insert in the cracks of your stressful life. When you can't, take a deep breath. Say a prayer and keep going.
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